Travel: Crianlarich Hotel

The Crianlarich Hotel has just been bought by Nigel Bird, who is revamping it from a place that used to specialise in coach parties and was becoming rather sad into a comfortable, Victorian three-star establishment, with the extra twist of offering transfers to the ski centre and all-inclusive packages for ski fans.

How do I get there? The hotel is in the centre of the village, at the junction of the two military roads built in the 1750s, now the A82 and A85, which still act as the main routes to Oban and Fort William. Crianlarich is less than an hour from Glasgow and about 75 minutes from Edinburgh. There are seven buses a day from Buchanan Street bus station in Glasgow, with the journey taking 90 minutes. The hotel is also two minutes from the train station.

What's the food like? The menu styles itself as "hearty" and that just about covers it. Chef Calum Marr, formerly of the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, has grand ideas, but he's at his best with the carb-fuelled staples hillwalkers and skiers really need, so there are lots of soups and potato-based offerings. I recommend the venison stew, which was as filling as it was tasty. The prices are pretty reasonable, with the aprs-ski hunger buster of 10oz Aberdeen Angus or venison burger plus beer coming in at a tenner. The wide selection of beers and whiskies is pretty impressive, too.

Home comforts This isn't a bijou boutique hotel, and hasn't yet completed the transformation to a fully-fledged country retreat, but given the prices it's a pretty impressive deal. There's a small lounge with a log-burning fire and board games, for skiers there's a boot room and drying facilities, while the whole place has wi-fi. The bar is also an extremely comfortable place to while away a few hours.

Bed test The rooms are clean and spacious, and the beds were even big enough for a big lump like me. In line with its billing as a haven of luxury for outdoor types, the duvets had enough tog to keep a polar explorer cosy.

Out and about Crianlarich is Munro country, with Ben More, Stob Binnein and Cruach Ardrain all visible from the hotel. The staff are knowledgeable and can provide guidance on routes for novices and more experienced walkers and climbers. Glencoe Ski Centre lies 18 miles, or 25 minutes by car, to the north, and for those who come by train, there is a bus transfer service. Salmon and trout fishing are available on the rivers Fillan and Dochart as well as Loch Dochart, and there are a number of mountain bike trails. For the less energetic, there are nine-hole golf courses in Killin and Dalmally.

The bottom line B&B costs 40 per night in a double or twin room, 60 for a family room and 25 for a single room. If you stay for three nights on a DB&B basis during the week, you get a fourth night for free – so a couple can effectively stay for four nights, including dinner, for 90 each. With all the lifts open at Glencoe at the time of writing, it's worth considering the two-night ski special (Friday and Saturday only), which gives you a ski pass, transfer and B&B for 100 per person in a twin or double, or 120 for a single.

This article was originally published in Scotland on Sunday on 28 February 2010